2015年6月20日 星期六

What Ramadan in Damascus looked like

介紹內戰前大馬士革齋戒月情況

In the next few days, Londoners are set to enjoy a cultural and musical event aiming to bring the Ramadan traditions of the Arab world into the heart of the British capital. The diasporic Arabs currently observing the grimness and uncertainty of the Arab political landscape from a distance will definitely find in this event a dose of hope and solace. They’ll celebrate classical Arabic music and the storytelling traditions known in Arab urban spaces by the name of Hakawati theatre. But as many Arabs and non-Arabs will participate in the event, Syrians from Damascus, in particular, will jubilate over the celebration of a tradition to which they are familiar, a tradition which is now slowly dying in a burning Damascus of civil strife and severe food, water and electricity shortages. For many Damascenes who are going to the event, memories will be revived about Damascus’s old mosques, walls, souks and historic cafes and palaces, the spaces of history which once showed how the holy month of Ramadan could be a platform for artistic and musical revival and also a platform for social solidarity and charity crossing religious and class boundaries.

As many people who visited Damascus during Ramadan before 2011 would recall, the city had always been keen on taking a moment of deep respite to show its best of traditional culture and music. The flaneur inside the city, in areas like Bab Al Amara, Salheyi, Meidan and also Bab Touma would have noticed how the old cafes in Damascus would become theatre-like spaces where one could find a storyteller mounting the stage and donning his red Tarboush while telling love stories about heroic and charitable characters like Antar, Abla, Qais, Laila and King Baibars of the Mamluk period. The audiences, puffing on their Shishas, would look stupefied and wholly taken into the adventurous world of the main characters and into the metamorphosing sound bites of the storyteller.